The Oslo Anorak

The Oslo-Anorak knitted single stranded in Abuelita Merino Worsted
The Oslo-Anorak knitted double stranded with a combination of cotton and alpaca.

An urban anorak. Slightly A-shaped with a useful hood for colder days, the fit in general suits both boys and girls. Knitted bottom up. Choose to knit it single stranded in merno wool or double stranded with cotton and alpaca.
6/12 m (1/2 y) 3/4 y (5/6 y) 7/8 y
6/12 m for free below this time. The other sizes can be bought here.

Colder days:
Abuelita Merino Worsted, 200 (200) 200 (300) 300  g
Abuelita Merino Worsted Multi, 100 (200) 200 (300) 300  g

Warmer days:
A combination of Pickles Thin Organic Cotton, 200 (250) 300 (400) 450  g
and Pickles Pure Thin Alpaca, 100 (150) 150 (200) 250  g

31.5”  circular needles (+ 23.6” for the two smaller sizes) and DP needles US 8

Gauge per 4”
14 s in stockinette

Measurements, lying flat
Chest: 11 (13) 14.6 (15.7) 17”
Length: 12.2 (15.7) 17.7 (19.7) 21.6”
Garter stitch in the round:
Knit 1 round, purl 1 round
Garter stitch back and forth: Knit

The body piece
Cast on 92 s (using solid colour in Abuelita Worsted (AW) for the Winter version, or one strand cotton and one strand alpaca for the more Summery version) and circular needles US 8.
Place markers (PM) at the beginning of the round, after 46 s (marking the sides) and again after 69 s, marking the middle back.

Knit garter stitch in the round for 6 rounds in total.

Make the garment longer in the back.
Do this on a round with knit-stitches.
Knit until you are 4 s past the marker in the back, turn, knit until you are 4 s past the marker in the back, turn

Repeat the previous paragraph 5 times in total, but add 4 s for every repetition (i.e. 8 s next time)

Knit garter stitch in the round for 5 rounds in total.

Purl 1 round. (For AW: Switch to multi-colour)
Continue in stockinette.
Decrease in each side after 2”, and then again every 2”, “ 3 times in total (including the first one).
Knit the decrease round like this:
K1, K2tog, knit until 3 s remain before the marker in the other side, SSK, K2, K2tog, knit until 3 s remain of the round, SSK, K1.

Cast off 4 stitches in each side (2 s on each side of the markers in the side) when the piece is about 7.8” measured in the front (and you´re done decreasing). Put the piece aside.

Cast on 22 s.
Knit garter stitch in the round for the next 10 rounds.
Knit 1 round and increase 6 s evenly.
(For AW: Switch to multi-colour)
Continue in stockinette.
Increase 1 s on each side of the 2 stitches right under the sleeve.
Increase like this this every 1.3” until you´ve increased 4 times in total = 36 s.
Cast off the 4 s right under the sleeve when the piece is 7” = 32 s. Knit another sleeve.

Raglan decrease
Place all parts onto the same circular needles = 136 s.
Start the row from the beginning of the front piece and start knitting back and forth in garter stitch (For AW: Use solid colour).
Knit 1 row, and PM in all transitions between sleeves and the body piece (4 in total, the last at the end of the row). Make 6 new stitches after the last marker by making backwoard loops. ALWAYS purl the s right after the last marker from the right side to make a visible border for the front band. The new stitches will make the front band. Knit 1 row.

Start the reaglan decrease, alternate row 1 and 2 every time you knit from the right side, and knit all s from the wrong side.)
!!! NOTE: Just leave the marker in the middle back, and do not decrease here, this is for the hood later on!!!
NOTE: Knit a button hole after about 1.2” and every 1.2”  3 times in total.
Knit the button hole like this:
Knit until 3 s remain on a row from the right side, YO, K2tog, K1.

Decreasing row 1:
K1, K2tog *Knit until 3 s remain from the next marker, SSK, K2, K2tog*
Repeat from * to * until 3 s remain before the last marker.
SSK, K1, P1, knit the rest of the s.

Decreasing row 2:
Knit until you are 1 s past the marker on the first sleeve, K2tog, knit until 3 s remain until the next m, SSK.
Repeat on the other sleeve.

After 11 rows of decreasing in total, repeat decreasing row 1 three more times (You decrease 8 places on the 4 last rows of decreasing) = 50 s.

Knit 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off the first stitches on the front piece, leaving 6 s before the first marker.

Drop all markers except the one in the middle back. (Stop purling the one s by the last marker here):
The remaining 38  s makes the hood.
Increase in the middle back on every row from the right side like this:
Knit until 1 s remains before the marker, M1R (increase 1). K2, M1L (increase 1).

When you have increased on 6 rows in total = 50 s, continue knitting in garter stitch.
Assemble with kitchener´s stitch at the top then the hood is about 7”.

Sew the bottom flip of the front band to the body piece. Assemble under the sleeves.

Reader Comments (24)


I am knitting the oslo anorak in blue, but do not understand what you mean by SSK. Can you explain this?


januar 13, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterBiep

SSK stands for Slip, slip, knit. You slip 2 s knitwise, put them back on the left needle and knit them together through the back loops :)

januar 13, 2013 | Registered Commenterpickles

I'm stuck on the raglan decrease...
When the arms are in place, I have 136 s on the sticks. Then I cast on 6 new stitches (for the buttonholes) = 142 s, right?
In decreasingrow1 I'm decreasing 6 stitches and in decreasingrow2 I'm decreasing 4 stitches, right?
I knit like this:

* Decreasrow1 (142-6=136s)
* Knit all s (136s)
* Decreasrow2 (136-4=132s)
* Knit all s (132s)
* Decreasrow1 (132-6=126s)
* Knit all s (126s)
* Decreasrow2 (126-4=122s)
* Knit all s (122s)
* Decreasrow1 (122-6=116s)
* Knit all s (116s)
* Decreasrow2 (116-4=112s)
* Knit all s (112s)
* Decreasrow1 (112-6=106s)
* Knit all s (106s)
* Decreasrow2 (106-4=102s)
* Knit all s (102s)
* Decreasrow1 (102-6=96s)
* Knit all s (96s)
* Decreasrow2 (96-4=92s)
* Knit all s (92s)
* Decreasrow1 (92-6=86s)
* Knit all s (86s)
(That's 11 decreasingrows in total...)
* Decreasrow1 (86-6=80s)
* Knit all s (80s)
* Decreasrow1 (80-6=74s)
* Knit all s (74s)
* Decreasrow1 (74-6=68s)

So when I am done with the decreasing I have 68 s, not 50 as it should be...
I don't get it, pleas help!!

mai 26, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterLinda

I'm confused by the sleeve instructions.

For the round where you increase 6s- how do you do that evenly when 22 is not divisible by 6? Also, what type of increase should be used?

Another sleeve question: for the other increases- what do I consider to be the 2 stitches right under the sleeve?

Thanks for your help and clarification!

november 19, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterNoell

You ahve to increase 6 s during the round, it does not have do be divisible by 6:)
You cast off at the beginning/end of the round.

november 22, 2013 | Registered Commenterpickles

Thanks for sharing the pattern! :)

Where it says "Decrease in each side after 2”, and then again every 2”, “ 3 times in total (including the first one)." - is the first decrease after 2 inches of total length (in the front), or after 2" of stockinette?

januar 4, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterPia Thadani

after 2" of stockinette :)

januar 10, 2014 | Registered Commenterpickles

I love this pattern and am currently making it, but as the pattern is written I am wondering how the button part to made. I cast on the 6 extra stitches, but as the pattern reads (to me) it is all in one piece. is it actually meant to overlap so it can button up? Can I have some clarification please?

januar 30, 2014 | Unregistered

I just finished making this a couple days ago and I loved it! The raglan part is worked all in one piece, but in back and forth rows rather than rounds. When you're done you'll see that the button flap does overlap the other side. Here's a pic of mine so you can see how it sits:

januar 30, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterPia Thadani

So you just turn your work at the end of each row rather than knitting around?

januar 30, 2014 | Unregistered

exactly - you switch from rounds to rows at this point:

"Start the row from the beginning of the front piece and start knitting back and forth in garter stitch"

januar 30, 2014 | Unregistered CommenterPia Thadani

Thanks for clearing it up for us Pia:)

januar 31, 2014 | Registered Commenterpickles

Er denne små på størrelsen? Jeg skal strikke til en jente på 2.5 år, burde jeg gå opp til 3/4 da?

mars 25, 2014 | Unregistered

Det er så varierende hva ulike mener er stort og smått i størrelen, vi anbefaler å sjekke målene mot plagg du vet passer:) Den er ikke spesielt liten synes vi:)

april 1, 2014 | Registered Commenterpickles

I'm a bit confused with where the markers should be and am not sure how to do the sleeves - if I buy this pattern do I get more detailed instructions or would they be similar to what I get here?

juli 8, 2014 | Unregistered Commenterannie

The details are the same. Please tell us what you find unclear for us to be able to help:)

juli 13, 2014 | Registered Commenterpickles

Hello I just bought this pattern to make for my 4 year old because he liked it so much but I'm having a lot of trouble understanding it. The part where the pattern says "make the gament longer in the back" is the next part worked in short rows? Because it says to turn my work but I thought I was working in the rounds. And which markers am I working between for this part?

november 16, 2014 | Unregistered

Love this pattern but I'm confused with the hood. I read the pattern to say, increase 2 sts. on every right side row (meaning every other row), increasing 7 times total. Then continue in garter stitch on the remaining 56 stitches until hood is done - 8.2". So I made the 7 increases, which occurred in the first 14 rows, then knit the rest of the hood without any more increases. My hood's shape is more squared off rather than triangular. From your pictures, it looks like you continued to increase beyond the first 14 rows. Did I do it correctly and just need to block it into a triangle or did I read the pattern wrong?

november 19, 2014 | Unregistered

Amanda, yes you work short rows in the round. You work between the side markers.

november 21, 2014 | Registered Commenterpickles

I dont understand of placing markers at 46 sts (1/2 of cast on sts) and again at 69 sts, marking middle of back. Isnt the middle at 46 sts?
or do you cast on extra stitches later?


februar 20, 2015 | Unregistered

HI, me again
I drew myself a picture. NOW, I understand how the 69 st mark is the back.


februar 21, 2015 | Unregistered

How do you avoid holes when you turn:
knit until you are 4 s past the marker in the back, TURN, knit until you are 4 s past the marker in the back, TURN


februar 21, 2015 | Unregistered

Hi Pat. I just finished making this - love it! The pattern just says to "turn" but on working short rows you need to "wrap and turn" to avoid holes. Check out YouTube for tutorials. Here is a good one: (She made two videos for the entire process, one for the wrap and turn and one for picking up the wraps.)

Good luck!

februar 21, 2015 | Unregistered

Thanks for helping eachother our here:)

mars 6, 2015 | Registered Commenterpickles

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